Question:
What is the "major/deciding" factor in sound output quality?
?
2018-07-17 17:59:19 UTC
I have always wondered what is the "Major" factor that produces quality sound in say phones or computers. I'm guessing it's a bit of everything,but for example, when I'm building a PC, what "contributes" the most to "good sound" is it the sound card? is it the speakers? is it the headphones? If I had to pick one budget-wise, what would I pick to make the most out of it?

Also when it comes to phones, is it mostly hardware? earphone model? file type (mp3, aac, flac)?
Like I said, I'm guessing it's a combination of all those elements, but is there an element I should put more focus on?
Four answers:
inconsolate61
2018-07-20 16:29:24 UTC
Since you are taking about the Build of the PC not the files played, Better quality sound-cards will make a difference, but at a significant cost increase, usually one that is not justified for use with only the tinny internal speakers of a PC. Most sound cards do not provide amplification,only a headphone level output.Good sound from a PC normally hinges on what set of external amplified speakers you accessorize with. These price anywhere from a few dollars a pair to a couple grand. Without a significant investment in the speaker/amp choice, or quality headphones,any upgrade to the sound card or its internal DAC,,or adding an external DAC will not be realized.(heard.) On better reproduction equipment, such upgrades will make more of an audible difference. I used a relatively cheap rocket sound card and experienced zero problems with it, including none of the quality control issues attributed by some here, The card and its software suite were fine with up to seven channel surround sound, Recording software suites that advance this are common, and available. Immediately return any card that fails to isolate properly or under performs. It's defective.
Robert J
2018-07-18 13:46:00 UTC
Assuming the audio file itself is good quality, the weakest point on a PC is the digital-to-analog converters [DACs] and associated analog outputs for speakers or headphones.



Virtually every PC in existence suffers from some amount of power supply noise and ripple - and that gets superimposed on the analog audio outputs.



Turn the volume full up on pretty much any PC, while not playing any sound, and you will hear clicks, buzzes or squeaks and squeals as you move the mouse and run programs...





The way around that is to use a digital output, so moving the DACs to some other equipment that does not suffer the same problems.



Most PCs have a digital S/PDIF output on the motherboard, even it there is no external connector, You can buy connector plates to bring that out to a spare cardslot position.



Connect that via an optical cable to a decent surround amp and you have vastly better quality - and it does not make any difference if it's a basic built-in motherboard sound system or a stupidly expensive sound card, the digital output will almost certainly be identical.



Better still, use HDMI digital audio through a hole theatre amp; HDMI supports much higher bit rates & bit depths than S/PDIF.



If you don't want a full surround amp, an Audio MIDI usb interface designer for music work will give pretty spectacular results compared to a PC sound card; something like a Focusrite Scarlett has similar specs for the main and headphone outputs as some silly priced audiophile external DACs, but the audio interface has many more functions.





Or just use a really good set of Bluetooth headphones. With a PC, laptop or phone, you are then using a digital link all the way into the headphones to no analog noise from the PC etc.



Bluetooth stereo audio does use some compression so it's a bit of a compromise, but given a choice of the PCs background noises or the virtually imperceptible change over bluetooth, I'd take bluetooth any day.





For info:

My normal desktop machine has basic 5.1 PC speakers and has background noises; it's primarily used for work so I'm not that bothered.



My media centre PC feeds a Sony 7.1 home theatre system via HDMI, 700W RMS plus a 180W RMS sub..



My music system connects via a Tascam firewire audio interface.



If stuck in a hotel and listening via my phone or laptop, I use either Sony BT-50 headphones or a JBL Charge 2+ speaker.
spacemissing
2018-07-17 20:03:50 UTC
It's a set.



It depends on the combination of the original source, the sound card,

and whatever software that can change the sound in any way.
2018-07-17 18:11:40 UTC
The most important factor is the source recording you’re playing. If that’s crap, such as on a highly compressed and lossy low data rate MP3 variant, then it doesn’t matter what hardware and software you have as it will still sound poor.



Likewise you could have a lossless format such as FLAC, but if the original recording that was ripped from was poor then you’ll have sound quality every bit as poor as the original source.



But assume you have a pristine recording of the very highest quality. The limiting factor after that is simply whichever is the weakest part of your playback equipment. More often than not, on a phone or computer that will be the speakers as tiny phone speakers, earbud or headphone drive units and small PC speakers simply cannot move enough air to accurately reproduce sound.



One other factor is that there is a Law Of Diminishing Returns. So whatever components you add, spending twice as much is not going to usually give anything like twice the quality.


This content was originally posted on Y! Answers, a Q&A website that shut down in 2021.
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